Walking in Jesus' footsteps

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A Catholic sister walked toward the Wedding Church in Cana, just outside Nazareth, where Jesus entered public life at a wedding feast by performing His first miracle -- changing water into wine.

Here, Christianity first took root.

Natives of what today is Israel — some Jews and others pagans — became the first followers of Christ. As reported in the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles, they united under the name of Christians, with some going on to preach the Good News to the world.

Now, from Nazareth in the valley to Capernaum on the Sea of Galilee to Jerusalem in the mountains, key biblical sites in Israel are visited by thousands of Christians every day.

In Caesarea, a place built by Herod the Great along the Mediterranean Sea, the ruins tell a story of Christianity. During Roman rule, Caesarea was the capital of Palestine. It was here that St. Peter baptized the centurion Cornelius, the first gentile convert. St. Paul was imprisoned here for two years until he was sent to be tried in Rome.

Caesarea is well-known as an archaeological site preserving the original theater built by Herod, a replica of the Pontius Pilot inscription found here, warehouses, an amphitheatre and the harbor.

A group of journalists from Catholic publications that included a Review reporter toured Christian sites in Israel for seven days last month in a visit sponsored by the Israeli Ministry of Tourism.

Nazareth today is an Arab city of 90,000 people, many of them Christians. Shops typically close on Sunday. Nazareth is the city where the angel Gabriel told Mary that she would conceive by the power of the Holy Spirit, and the place where Jesus spent His childhood and youth. Nazareth is in the heart of a valley surrounded by mountains. It is described as a city of religion and faith, of spirituality and holiness, but also a city with a modern culture and Middle Eastern charm.

An influx of pilgrimages led to the building of the city's first church, the Basilica of the Annunciation, at the traditional site of Joseph and Mary's home. Many more churches have been built throughout the city, and were destroyed and rebuilt with the changes in Muslim and Christian rule over the centuries. In the 19th century Nazareth attracted renewed interest and Christians returned to live in this city and rebuilt churches and monasteries. Today Nazareth is the largest Arab city in Israel and has about 30 churches and monasteries, as well as mosques and ancient synagogues.

The rebuilt Basilica of the Annunciation retained parts of the previous churches. The church maintained by the Franciscans is the largest in the Middle East and consists of two levels. The lower church contains the grotto, which tradition holds was the home of Mary and site of the Annunciation. The upper church has a cupola through which light flows to illuminate the interior and mosaics contributed by Catholic communities from around the world. Right next to this church is the Church of St. Joseph, built on the ruins of agricultural buildings where, according to tradition, Joseph, Mary's husband, had his carpentry shop.

Walking around the streets of Nazareth provides a glimpse of the past, a sample of the people and the culture experienced by the Holy Family more than 2,000 years ago. At lunchtime, our group ate at a tiny streetside diner, with the workers preparing and frying the popular falafel pita sandwich piping hot, stuffed with vegetables, asking us questions in Arabic and smiling at our nods.

Nearby is Cana where Jesus entered public life at a wedding feast by performing the first miracle — the changing of water into wine (John 2:1-11). The events are marked at the Wedding Church, built by the Franciscans in the 19th century over ruins believed to date to Jesus' day. Couples from around the world come here to renew marriage vows and to be inspired.

Mount Tabor, the site of the Transfiguration, is a serene place where the Church of the Transfiguration was built in 1924 over the medieval remains of an earlier building, commemorates the New Testament story from Matthew 17:1-9, where Jesus is recognized as the Son of God in the company of Moses, Elijah and three of His disciples.

Jesus' presence in His ministry is seen in Capernaum (Matthew 4:13) and the surrounding area of the Sea of Galilee. Property purchased by the Franciscans in 1894 was excavated, and the findings showed a larger village and synagogue built in the fourth and fifth centuries. Through the glass floor of a new church built in 1990 is what archaeologists identify as the house of a fisherman, St. Peter. Early Christians built a church in his honor on top of the ruins.

Nearby is the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter, where Jesus appeared to His disciples after His Resurrection. Several miracles are associated with the site (John 21:1-14 and Matthew 14:22-33) as well as Jesus' proclamation to Peter that "on this rock I will build my Church" (Matthew 16:17-19). Another site, Tabgha, is the location of the miracle of the loaves and fishes and the post-Resurrection appearance of Jesus. Benedictine monks live there and serve the local Church as well as pilgrims and tourists who visit the Church of the Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes.

Not to be missed is a first-century fishing boat at Kibbutz Ginosar, in a museum called Man in the Galilee. Discovered in 1986, it was made from 14 different types of wood and helps visualize what it was like for Jesus and His disciples as they travelled on the lake. Among those who made sure to see the boat was Pope John Paul II during his visit to the Holy Land.

Nearby is the hill where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount. The gardens provide a relaxing setting to reflect on the Beatitudes. The grounds and the church completed in 1938 provide a stunning view.

Jerusalem today is a mix of Jewish, Christian and Muslim cultures. But its history, back to 4500 B.C., is prominent. For Jews, it is the site where the first and second temples were built. For Muslims, it is where their prophet Mohammad was sent to heaven. For Christians it is the place of Jesus' crucifixion and Resurrection. "The Western Wall" is considered Judaism's holiest shrine and is visited by people of all three faiths. It is the only remnant of the Temple destroyed by the Romans in 70 A.D.

The Mount of Olives overlooks the Old City of Jerusalem. The peak is where Jesus rose to heaven (Luke 24:50-51). The Garden of Gethsemane outside the Basilica of Agony (Church of All Nations) is where Jesus spent the night before his arrest by the Romans. Ancient olive trees in the garden are accompanied by flowers.

Nearby is the golden-turreted Russian Orthodox Church of Maria Magdalene. Besides the compound of churches adjacent to Mount Scopus at its north, which includes the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, are the Basilica Eleona and the convent of Pater Noster. Also seen is an extensive cemetery that faces Jerusalem.

The Mount of Olives is first noted as King David's escape route during the rebellion of his son Absalom, then later in the Bible. In the New Testament, it is the route from Jerusalem to Bethany and a favorite location for Jesus' teachings and where He wept over Jerusalem. The Dominus Flevit Church was built by the Franciscan order in 1954 to designs by A. Barluzzi in the shape of a tear atop remains of a Byzantine church.

A mile-long route through the Old City of Jerusalem leads from the Antonia Fortress, where Jesus was condemned by Pontius Pilate, to Golgotha (Calvary), the place of the crucifixion. The Via Dolorosa (Way of the Cross) is marked by 14 Stations of the Cross. At each station there is a chapel or marker depicting an incident in Jesus' crucifixion. There are many places in the Holy Land where one can one get a sense of walking alongside Jesus, but this one is the most profound, knowing that the walls and streets are those Our Lord trudged through on His journey. The path culminates at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the traditional site of Calvary.

Other sites in Old Jerusalem include King David's tomb and the Cenacle (room of the Last Supper). The City of David, just outside the walls, is a small hill where King David established the capital of his kingdom 3,000 years ago. More than 2,000 years ago two long aqueducts were constructed to bring water to the temple. Visitors can explore the now-dry remnants of the lower aqueduct.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, in the West Bank territory, marks the traditional site of Christ's birth. In 326, Constantine and his mother, St. Helena, commissioned a church to be built over the cave used as a manger. The church, rebuilt and enlarged by Justinian I in the sixth century, is now shared by monks of Greek, Latin and Armenian orders.

Bethlehem's inhabitants, Muslim and Christian Arabs, depend largely on pilgrims and tourists for their livelihood. Handicrafts, fashioned from olive wood and mother-of-pearl, embroidered goods, and religious articles are made in the town. Bethlehem is also the trade center for surrounding farming villages and for the pastoral nomads who inhabit the area. In 1995, Israeli troops withdrew from Bethlehem as part of the process of establishing Palestinian self-rule in the West Bank.

For more information on visiting Christian sites in the Holy Land see www.goisrael.com.

More stories:

Franciscans' stewardship in Holy Land takes many forms

Holy Sepulchre Knights, Ladies help Christians in Holy Land

Via Dolorosa (Way of the Cross)

First Station — Antonia Fortreess: Pilate condemns Jesus

Second Station — The Chapel of the Condemnation: Jesus takes up the cross

Third Station — Jesus falls under the cross for the first time

Fourth Station — Jesus meets His Mother

Fifth Station — Simon of Cyrene helps Jesus carry the cross

Sixth Station — a Jerusalem woman wipes Jesus’ face

Seventh Station — Jesus falls for the second time

Eighth Station — Jesus consoles the women of Jerusalem

Ninth Station — Jesus falls for the third time

10th Station — Jesus is stripped of His garments

11th Station — Jesus is nailed to the cross

12th Station — Jesus dies on the cross

13th Station — Jesus’ body is taken from the cross and washed

14th Station — Jesus’ body is laid in the Tomb of Joseph of Aramathea

The last five stations are within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

The Sermon on the Mount

Matthew 5: 1-12

When he saw the crowds, he went up on the mountain, and after he sat down, his disciples came to him. He began to teach them, saying:

“Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven.

“Blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted.

“Blessed are the meek, for they will inherit the land.

“Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, for they will be satisfied.

“Blessed are the merciful, for they will be shown mercy.

“Blessed are the clean of heart, for they will see God.

“Blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called children of God.

“Blessed are those who are persecuted for the sake of righteousness, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven.

“Blessed are you when they insult you and persecute you and utter every kind of evil against you (falsely) because of me. Rejoice and be glad, for your reward will be great in heaven. Thus they persecuted the prophets who were before you.